Food and wine matching is shrouded in myth. Yet armed with a few ground rules, wine and food matching doesn’t have to be difficult – and when it works, it’s difficult to overestimate just how rewarding it can be.

It is entirely possible to drink any wine with any dish. Indeed, I know a man who serves white burgundy with stewed lamb as he finds it brings out the texture of the meat. Wine drunk by itself taste different from when it is drunk with food, because wine acts on food similarly to the way a spice does. Acids, tannins and sugars in the wine interact with the food to provide different taste sensations. Most whites are high in acid while most reds are high in tannin, that bitter tasting compound that comes from the pips, skins and stem. On a basic level it is common to add vinegar or lemon juice to fish, so it follows that a white wine high in acidity and fresh apple flavors complements that dish. Similarly, wines with high acidity can transform when paired with creamy sauces. In the mouth a dry, red wine with plenty of tannin creates bitterness and a drying of the taste buds. Heavy, chewy food such as red meat can soften that sensation.

As a rule of thumb, though, it’s best not to think of the color of the wine but of its body and texture. Delicate reds can often fulfill the role of white wines and vice versa. The golden rule for puddings is to always serve a wine sweeter than your dish. Similarly, a fizzy wine can add a welcome lift to a heavy dish – for instance, a sweet sparkling wine with Christmas pudding.

– Will Lyons